There are two types of flanges that can be used for this application. The most durable post-to-surface mounting attachment we offer is welded flanges for posts. Factory-welded, then powder coated, these durable, welded base flanges are ideal for mounting a post to hard surfaces such as concrete. They are sized appropriately for each type of post’s base and then welded to the base. For best results, use welded flanges when the surface grade is level or near-level. Shimming can sometimes work if the surface near level. Attractive skirt covers are available to conceal the weld as well as the bolts and shims used to secure the post to the surface. An alternative is our two-piece wedge flanges for posts. Though not as strong, they can be more versatile because they enable you to cut each post on location, which can be useful in keeping the top of the fence level when the grade below fluctuates. For a durable and versatile installation without the use of flanges at all, you may want to consider coring a hole into the concrete surface and installing your posts by re-cementing. Properly executed, this can be a very effective installation approach, but we strongly recommend you contract a professional concrete cutting company to do the coring.
Archive for How-To Guide
Aluminum fence installation tips
Question from a recent aluminum fence shopper planning for his project:
We are installing a gate at the sidewalk next to our house. The sidewalk itself has a slight grade incline up from the gate. How do we deal with this issue when installing an aluminum gate?
Our answer:
Here are the potential solutions:
1. Have the gate open out and away from the incline in the opposite direction. (Gates are universal and can swing in either direction unless prohibited by code, which may be the case if this is a pool project.)
2. Set the gate and the fence higher off grade – just enough to not scrape.
3. Narrow the width of the gate so that it’s reach into the grade incline is minimized.
4. Order a gate slightly shorter than the adjacent fence. The top will then correspond to the adjacent fencing, but the bottom will not. (This will be more obvious with a flush bottom fence.)
5. Go with a classic bottom fence, then shorten gate at bottom on site as needed. At least the bottom rail will still correspond to adjacent fencing. (Note: “Classic bottom” means the vertical pickets protrude down below the lowest horizontal rail.)
This is an example of our customer service. The above answer was taken directly from one of our email correspondences. Welcome to iFenceUSA.com!
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